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Allspice or pimento - The essential oil of this useful spice is procured by distillation from the unripe fruit, and is of very pleasant odor, and can be usefully employed for scenting toilet soaps in combination with other perfumes. Its odor resembles cloves, and it is a native of the West Indies and South America.

Almonds - The bitter almond is a native of Egypt, and is grown in Algeria and Italy for its fruit, the kernels of which form a very useful material for the perfumer. The oil expressed from the kernels is very bland, and enters into many cosmetics. The essential oil distilled from the cake or residuum is much used in essences, soaps, creams, etc.

Ambergris - Secretion of the Physeter macrocephalus or sperm whale. This peculiar substance is found floating on the sea on the coasts of China, Japan, Greenland, and other places, and was long used before its source was determined, and was thought to be of the nature of yellow amber (a fossil), hence its name (amber-gris) gray amber. It is the result of a diseased state of the animal Ambergris is not of an agreeable odor in itself, but in combination with other perfumes it imparts a fragrance and a permanence very remarkable.

Aniseed - The seed pod, from which the essential oil is procured by distillation, has a very strong and pleasant odor which can be used for toilet soaps, etc., but it is chiefly used in flavoring liquors, cordials, etc.

Star aniseed - The fruit of an evergreen tree growing in China and Tartary, the essential oil of which is distilled from the fruit, which is formed like a star, and is like the other aniseed but with a more pleasant flavor, and is used for the same purposes.

Ambrette - see Musk-seed

Balm. Lemon - It is a fragrant oil obtained by distilling the plant ; it is frequently mentioned in formula, but is at present old, and seldom used, and yet we think it might be, should it be cultivated in sufficient quantities to be made economically, which at present is not the case.

Balsam of Peru - Is a native of the western part of South America, and is procured from incisions made in the tree, or by boiling the leaves and branches in water. It has a strong vanilla-like odor, and is much employed in the form of tincture mixed with other perfumes.

Balsam of Tolu - Is also a native of South America, and is procured in the same manner as the preceding one, and its uses are the same, but its odor is more pleasant. It has the consistency of resin, or when warm of treacle, is very soluble in alcohol, and, like all other balsams, gives permanency to extracts and bouquets.

Bay - An evergreen tree, a native of the East, but growing in Southern Europe and in the West Indies, where a pleasant perfume is made of the leaves by distillation with rum and with water. They yield an essential oil, which is used to make the rum or to perfume soap, etc.

Bergamot - Growing in the south of France, Calabria, and Sicily, where the essential oil is expressed from the rind of the fruit, and has a well-known pleasant odor. When fresh it has a green color; air and light soon deteriorate its quality. It should be kept in well-stoppered bottles in a cool dark place. This advice may apply to nearly all perfumes and essential oils except rose, which does not spoil. Bergamot is seldom used alone, but, combined with other essences, adds to their richness, especially to all spice oils.

Bigarrade - The Seville orange is cultivated for its oil, which is distilled from the flowers. This neroli is much known and used as a prominent ingredient in eau de Cologne, indeed an indispensable one. It can also be used in bouquets.

Benzoin - Gum benzoin is a native of Siam and Singapore. It exudes from wounds made in the tree, and soon hardens into a compact mass, has a perfume resembling vanilla, which is usefully and largely employed for tinctures, essences, bouquets, pomades, and toilet powders.

Caraway - Caraway seed grows in all parts of Northern Europe, and yields a very useful essential oil, which is much used for perfuming soap, in combination with lavender, cloves, or bergamot. The ground seed are valuable for sachet powders.

Cardamom - Is a native of the East Indies, growing wild in hilly countries. The seeds have a very pleasant aromatic flavor which can be utilized for various purposes where a spicy flavor is desired.

Cascarilla - This shrub grows wild in various parts of the West Indies and Mexico, and the bark yields a pleasant musky odor, especially when burned. Hence it is a useful ingredient in making fumigating pastils or for perfuming tobacco.

Cassia - From China and the East Indies we receive this valuable spice, from the bark of which is distilled a very strong essential oil resembling cinnamon, but is not so pleasant. It is used chiefly in toilet soaps, and in small quantities is blended with other perfumes, is useful in some essences, and is also used to flavor liquors and cordials.

Cassie - Is grown in France and Italy for the odor of its flowers, which have a very valuable perfume, resembling violets but stronger, which is imparted to pomades or oils by the process of maceration. The fragrance is used in combination with others in numerous essences or extracts for the handkerchief.

Cedar - An evergreen tree found in Syria and the United States, yields an essential oil which is quite pleasant, but not ranch used. The ground wood is used for sachet powders, and the tincture in some dentifrices.

Cedrat - This plant is cultivated in the south of France and in Italy for its fruit, whose rind yields, by expression, a very fine oil, used extensively in eau de Cologne. Its odor resembles a mixture of lemon and bergamot.

Citronella - A native grass found in Ceylon, yielding a very strong essential oil, which is procured by distillation, and is consumed in quantities for perfuming common toilet soaps, but is not much liked for anything else.
Civet - The civet cat is found in India and Africa, and yields this well-known odor in a glandular secretion. It is very repulsive in appearance and smell when used alone, but when combined with other scents gives them a more flowery fragrance than any other substance known ; it resembles musk, but in some bouquets is
more useful.

Cloves - Zanzibar furnishes to commerce the larger portion of this useful spice. The essential oil abounds in the whole plant, but the unexpanded flower bud is the clove of commerce. The oil is distilled in different countries, and is a very useful ingredient in a number of soaps, essences, pomades, and as a flavoring for cordials, etc.

Coriander - Is a native of Italy, and yields an essential oil in small quantities, very useful for many purposes, particularly to mouth pastils and tooth elixirs.

Dill - Is grown in England, and is there distilled as much for medicine as for its perfume, which is little known here. Dill water is used by some as a cosmetic. The oil can be usefully combined with other odors to make a variety.

Eglantine or Sweeibrier - This well-known plant grows a very fragrant leaf, but does not yield its odor readily by the usual processes, and it is consequently imitated by the perfumer.

Elder - Grows in Europe and the United States. The odor of the flowers, which is fragrant but rather heavy, can be extracted by distillation. Elder-flower water is thought by many to be a great cure-all, but as a perfume it is seldom used.

Fennel - Cultivated in southern Europe for medicinal purposes and for its oil, which is procured from the seeds, and used in toilet soaps, but seldom enters into anything else.

Flag - The sweet flag yields a pleasant-smelling oil from its rizome. Used as a flavoring for some kinds of liquors and tobacco, but not often in perfumery.

Geranium - The rose-leaf geranium, whose oil is procured by distillation, has a favorite rosy smell, and is largely cultivated in France. It is used to adulterate otto of rose, and also for many different forms of perfumery, and is generally much admired.

Ginger Grass - Cultivatedin the Moluccas, and often called geranium, but though similar in odor is not so pleasant. It enters into the same substances as the rose-leaf geranium, but in cheaper articles.

Heliotrope - Is a native of Peru, though not cultivated for its perfume, which is very exquisite, and which the perfumer has to imitate with other essences, but which is not very difficult to do, as the odor resembles a blending of rose and vanilla.

Honeysuckle or Woodbine - The flowers of this well-known vine have a very strong and pleasant jasmine-like odor, that might be extracted by enfleurage ; but it is not, and therefore the perfumer makes
an imitation.

Hovenia - Is a beautiful flowery shrub, a native of Japan, but the odor is not remarkably pleasant, and the perfumer has recourse to his art in its imitation. The odor resembles a mixture of rose, lemon, neroli, and cloves in due proportion.

Iris - See Orris.

Jasmine - Largely cultivated in the south of France, in Italy, Algeria, and Tunis, and is one of the most useful of plants for the perfumer. The odor of the flower is extracted by absorption with oil or pomade, from which the fragrance is procured by infusion with alcohol, and enters into various bouquets.

Jonquil - Is also cultivated in France for its flowers, from which the odor is obtained by enfleurage, but, not being abundant, it is generally imitated, and quite successfully.

Laurel - Grows in France, Italy, and the United States, and its fragrance is extracted from the leaves by distillation to procure laurel water. It is but seldom used, as its fragrance resembles bitter almonds, but is not so pleasant.

Lavender - Extensively grown in France and England for its oil, which is distilled from the plant when in bloom. The English oil is very much more pleasant than the French, and of many times its value. At Mitcham, Surrey, England, where it is cultivated on an extensive scale, the best oil is obtained. There is a still greater quantity made in France and Italy, but not so good or so valuable. Lavender water, or essence, has had a great reputation, and deservedly so, as its odor is very refreshing. The oil enters into many formulas, and is particularly well adapted for soaps.

The French also distil an oil from the spike lavender, or oil of spike. Its odor is not so fine, and it is used for soaps only.

Lemon - Calabria, Genoa, Spain, and Sicily all cultivate this useful fruit for commerce. The rind contains the essence, which is procured by expression, and forms a very important article of commerce, as it is used for so many purposes, as a flavoring as well as a perfume. Owing to its rapid absorption of oxygen it should be kept in strong well stoppered bottles and in a dark place. It is an important ingredient in eau de Cologne and some other preparations.

Lemon Grass - To Ceylon, where the grass is distilled for its oil, we are indebted for this product. It grows, also, in many parts of India. The oil has a very strong odor resembling verbena, for which it is generally substituted, and it is also used for perfuming soaps and pomades.

Lilac - Grows abundantly in the United States, England, and elsewhere. Its flowers have a very pleasant odor, which could be extracted by maceration but is seldom done, and is universally imitated.

Lily - The lily of the valley is a native of Europe, but grows in all temperate climates. Its odor could be extracted by maceration but is not, so the perfumer has to resort to an imitation.

Limette - Grown principally in Sicily and the south of France for its fruit, whose rind yields a very fine oil similar to the lemon, though pleasanter. It is an ingredient in good Cologne water and some essences, and its odor is particularly refreshing.

Mace - Is the enveloping rind of the nutmeg, which grows in Java and Penang. The concrete oil is extracted by expression from the refuse nutmegs and mace, and is used in pomade and soaps. There is also a limpid oil procured by distillation, and used in combination to make variety by its spicy odor. The ground mace is also used in sachet powders.

Magnolia - Is a native of our own country. Its flowers are exceedingly fragrant, but as it cannot be procured, a very good imitation is made with the materials we have.

Marjoram - Sweet marjoram is found in the United States, England, and France ; which latter country cultivates it for its oil, which is distilled from the herb and used only for toilet soaps.

Meadow Sweet - This very sweet smelling herb is found in England and elsewhere, but is not cultivated in sufficient quantities for the perfumer's use, and he therefore makes an imitation.

Melissa - See Balm.

Mignonette - The flowers of this favorite plant are cultivated in France, and submitted to the process of absorption with grease or oil, from which the odor is extracted by means of alcohol.

Mirbane - An artificial oil of bitter almonds is made chemically with rectified benzole and nitric acid in an apparatus consisting of a large glass tube in the form of a coil, divided in the upper end into two tubes terminating in small funnels. The acid flows slowly in one funnel, while the benzole flows in the other. The two substances meeting at the point of union combine with the evolution of heat, and the product being cooled as it flows down the worm is collected at the lower end and washed in a dilute solution of carbonate of soda. When properly made it has a strong odor like bitter almonds, but is principally used in soaps.

Mint - These well-known essences are made in Europe and the United States, being much used as a flavoring for candies and cordials and used in soaps in combination with other oils. It also enters into one or two tooth washes. Both peppermint and spearmint may be added to many compounds.

Myrtle - The south of France is the only place where the plant is grown for its perfume, which is procured by distillation to make myrtle water, which enters into a popular perfume on the continent known as eau d'Ange.

Myrrh - This gum resin, grown in Arabia and India, from ancient times to the present day, is now used by the perfumers only in tooth washes and dentifrices, where it is very useful.

Music - This very useful and indispensable secretion of the musk deer comes to us from Thibet and China, and is found in a small pod attached to the belly of the male deer. The best quality is received from Tonquin. Musk is an unctuous substance, of reddish-brown color which soon turns black by exposure, of a very powerful odor, and although generally disliked in its pure state, mixed with other odors it is very much admired by most people, and often by those who declare that they do not like musk. To the perfumer musk is invaluable, and enters into a great many preparations, as essences, powders, pastils, soaps, etc. etc.

Musk Seed - Ambrette, as it is generally called, comes to us from the West Indies, and is in small kidney-shaped seeds of a grayish-brown color, with an odor similar to musk and ambergris. In the form of a tincture it combines usefully in making low-priced essences.

Narcissus - This favorite flower, found in nearly all climates, is for its fragrance cultivated to some extent in Algeria. Its delicate lily-like odor is extracted by absorption with pomade, but, as it is rare and expensive, the perfumer makes an imitation.

Neroli - Orange-flowers are grown in the south of France, in Italy, Sicily, and Calabria, on an extensive scale, and the oil extracted by distillation is sent to all countries. The citrus bigaradia or bitter orange is the most prized, the essential oil of its flowers having the finest odor. The edible orange yields a good odor, but it
is not so delicate. These odors are generally much admired, and are necessary in the manufacture of good eau de Cologne. There are also made from the same trees two other oils, one from the leaves called petit-grain, and one from the rind of the fruit called Portugal or orange. The orange-flowers when treated by maceration with oil or pomade yield with alcohol a finer flavored perfume, and quite distinct from the nerolis.

Nutmeg - The Indian Archipelago furnishes most of the nutmegs of commerce, which are used throughout the world as a flavoring or as a condiment. The essential oil by distillation is used in combination in many articles when a spicy odor or flavor is desired. The nuts ground into coarse powder can also be used in sachet powders.

Orange - From Calabria and Sicily we receive most of the oil of orange, which is expressed from the rind of the fruit, and is employed for many perfumes. Like all of the oils from the citrus family, it absorbs oxygen very rapidly when exposed, and should be kept well stopped and in the dark. In pomade it has the same tendency, and does not suit so well as some other perfumes.

Olibanum - A gum resin found in Arabia and India, and used from the earliest times as incense, and called frankincense. The Catholic and Greek churches still burn it as incense, while the perfumer uses it in fumigating pastils and sometimes in the form of tincture.

Oms or Iris - This rhizoma is a native of Italy and grows in other countries. The odor of the root is used in the form of a tincture in many essences and bouquets, and powdered it is very useful in sachet-powders and dentifrices.

Palm Oil - The palm that yields this useful oil grows principally in Africa, whence it is received. It is a fatty oil obtained by expression, and when fresh has a pleasant violet-like odor, but is not available for perfume. It is added to pomades to give a yellow color; but its principal use is to make palm soap, which is justly popular, and which retains the odor of the oil.

Patclwuly - A sage-like plant growing in China and India having a peculiar strong odor much admired by many. The essential oil is distilled from the plant, and is much used by perfumers in making an extract for the handkerchief with the addition of a little rose to soften it. It also enters into some other bouquets and essences.

Petit-grain - This perfume has been partially described under the head of neroli, and is obtained from the leaves of the same plants, and is employed in various ways, but principally in making eau de Cologne and
bouquets, soaps, pomades, etc.

Pea, Sweet - The flowers of this well-known garden annual have a pleasant perfume, but as it is not cultivated for its odor the perfumer makes a compound which he calls by that name.

Pink - Clove pink has a very popular odor, though its cultivation is so limited that the perfumer could not get together enough of them to make a pint of essence, so from his numerous ingredients he makes a delightful imitation. To detect the innocent fraud would puzzle the oldest connoisseur.

Rhodium - Called rose wood because it yields an oil somewhat resembling otto of rose, and which was formerly used to adulterate that valuable article. The wood is imported from South America, and is used principally in sachet powders.

Rose - This may truly be called the queen of flowers, as it is universally admired for its beauty as well as its fragrance, and, though growing nearly all over the world, is chiefly cultivated for commercial uses in Turkey, India, and France. In France pomades and oils are scented with it for the perfumer's use, and in India and Turkey it is grown for the manufacture of the otto of rose, which is obtained by distilling the leaves with water, and requires about 600 pounds to make a single ounce of the oil. When pure it is exceeding pleasant, and is also invaluable to the perfumer for a great many purposes, for there are few odors with which it will not harmoniously combine. Yet for the finer extracts for the handkerchief the alcoholate from the pomade gives a finer odor, and one that it is impossible to dispense with, for more than half his numerous extracts and bouquets. The dried leaves also enter into powders, pastils, and sachets.

Rosmary - This useful plant is cultivated in the south of Europe for its oil, which is distilled from the flowers and leaves, and comes to us of several qualities, the best being from the flowers alone. In eau de Cologne it is almost indispensable, for it blends so well with the odors of the citrus species, and it is equally useful in toilet soaps.

Sage - This plant was formerly much employed in perfumery, but at the present time its oil is sometimes used in soaps, and the dried leaves enter into some sachet powders, but being used as a condiment it is considered common.

Santal - A tree well known in China, India, and Australia. Its wood is burned in incense in the former countries, and its consumption for that purpose is very great. The oil distilled from the wood is valuable in perfumery in many compounds, and has a lasting property available to the perfumer in many ways.

Serpolet - Wild thyme, whose odor is quite as pleasant as the cultivated herb, is distilled in the south of France, and enters with advantage into perfumes for soaps.

Sassafras - A native of North America, having a very pleasant essential oil obtained from the bark of the root ; it is exported largely to Europe, and is used extensively to perfume cheap soaps and to flavor various medicinal preparations.

Storax - This balsam is obtained in Asiatic Turkey, by incisions in the trunk of the tree ; it is of several kinds and qualities, the best being in yellowish-white tears mixed with a reddish-brown substance. This is scarce, and can be but seldom obtained. The most common form of storax is a semi-fluid black-and-gray substance, having an odor somewhat like vanilla. Soluble in alcohol, in which form it is sometimes employed in bouquets.

Thyme - This herb belongs to a large family, all having a more or less fragrant odor. This species is cultivated in France and Germany for its oil, which is used combined with other perfumes to scent soaps, etc. The herb can also be usefully employed in sachet powders.

Tonquin - From Para and Angustura, in South America, we receive this valuable bean, which contains a volatile oil, a fatty oil, and benzoic acid. In the form of tincture with alcohol they can be used in bouquets and essences ; in powder they are useful in sachets, giving somewhat the odor of new-mown hay. They are largely used to perfume cigars and tobacco.

Tola - See Balsam of Tolu.

Tuberose - This exquisite flower is extensively cultivated in the south of France and Italy for the use of perfumers all over the world. Its odor is obtained by enfleurage with grease and oils, and its alcoholate is in constant use in numerous bouquets, and always gives satisfaction when judiciously used.

Vanilla - To Mexico we are indebted for this very valuable drug, which has a not less favorable fragrance in perfumery than valuable flavor in confectionery, and for both purposes it is largely consumed. The true vanilla is the bean of a handsome vine, and, made into a tincture, it enters into a great number of fine extracts and bouquets, and also in powder into sachets.

Verbena - The lemon verbena is a native of Spain, where alone it is cultivated for commerce. The volatile oil is distilled from the leaves, and is generally admired. Perfumers often use the lemon-grass oil for verbena extract, but it has to be modified with other odors to make the imitation equally delicate. It is principally used in handkerchief bouquets.

Violet - There are violet farms near Nice and Florence, where this delicate flower is submitted to the process of enfleurage with pomade or oil, from which the perfumer extracts the odor with fine alcohol ; and, when carefully made, it is of exquisite and delicate fragrance. This is the most costly of all flower perfumes, for the plant is small and the flowers few, and it requires a great deal of space and labor in its cultivation, and also because it is but a short time in bloom. The extract is frequently imitated with cassie, orris, etc. etc.

Vitivert - Viti vert or kuskus is the rhizoma of an Indian grass, which is made into mats and blinds, called tatty, and when sprinkled with water in that hot climate emits a fragrance which is very agreeable. Its essential oil can be obtained by distillation, but it yields but a small quantity. In the form of tincture, it enters into some essences ; in powder, into sachet powders.

Wintergreen - The partridge berry, a small evergreen plant, native to the United States and Canada, yields a pleasant and powerful volatile oil by distillation; but more used to flavor medicines than as a perfume, though in combination it may be used in soap.

Ylang Ylang - Called the flower of flowers, the blossoms of a very handsome tree growing in India and China, and but lately brought to public notice ; but it has proved a great favorite. The oil from the flower is obtained by distillation, and has an odor somewhat resembling the jasmine. Thus far it has been quite costly, but as the demand increases so will its production, which will, no doubt, lead to a reduction in its price.